So, yes. This fashion month is also over. I spotted lots of trends on the catwalk: some of them were already seen last season, some others were less obvious, but definitely interesting. The Spring Summer 2017 woman knows what she wants and she is not at all afraid to be daring, she likes to draw attention to herself, she is open to challenges, and she is fearless — and despite her strong character, she knows how to be very feminine, too.
Earrings are largely visible: they are big, huge, almost difficult to wear. Forget about the whole “less is more” idea for this season. Proenza Schouler gave her earrings a 1970s touch, whereas N°21’s evoked the passementerie of bygone times. Kenzo’s earrings looked like shiny little planets, while Delpozo brought the idea of pendant earrings to the extreme, using maxi paillettes that made us think of sea anemones.
From New York to Paris, the upper half of the body was center-stage — especially the part going from shoulders to cuffs. Shoulderpads are back, and they are not afraid to be noticed. For Jil Sander and Kenzo, shoulderpads became an integral part of sleeves, blending with them completely. Jacquemus, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent chose square pads. Marc Jacobs and Gucci‘s sleeves started narrow, to become wider, softer and more fluid, the closer they got to the wrist.
Maxi was a keyword when talking stripes, too. Miu Miu‘s fur coat was a clear example of this. Arthur Arbesser prefers horizontal stripes, and matched red with blue and lilac. Ports 1961 matched stripes with one another, as did Sonia Rykiel, creating a definitely unusual, yet visually pleasing, chromatic effect.
The importance of waist
Emphasized, exasperated and exalted: the waist is definitely a central feature of Spring Summer 2017 trends, thanks to the ever-present belts. Y project‘s belts were very long and dangled over soft skirts and micro shorts. Balenciaga and Philosophy‘s belts were oversized, while Max Mara‘s were ton-sur-ton; Margiela knotted them up, instead. Loewe created bustier belts. Vionnet completed its looks with a metalllic belt bag over an orange dress.
Unexpected see-through details
Sometimes, covering up can be so much more seductive than undressing. Seduction is also about the discovery of unexpected details, and that was the case this season, with clothing showing unexpected, unusual see-through details. Antonio Berardi, for instance, created a suit with see-through, white, silk crêpe de Chine sleeves. Gucci‘s organza headwear and visors highlight the typically rétro, dreamy allure of the maison.