Returning beauty to women, stripping from all the fashionist clichés that lately annihilate the creative flash and designers style has always been the ultimate goal of haute couture collections; give, however, a moment of sublime in which the viewer can not help but enlighten a dichotomy so perfect between couture and enchantment is a skill of a few.
A few days ago the Paris Couture Week 2019 ended and between meticulous details and stylistic mastery, new trends to seize and unexpected inspirations from the streetwear world, the daydream finally found its raison d’etre. Many have been the fashion houses that participated, embellishing real shows of grace and beauty, symbol of the creative genius that finds, once again, in the Haute Couture its maximum expression.
Among the many collections from which to take inspiration we have selected those that, in our opinion, have been for one or the other the most disruptive compared to a fashion system appeared now more than saturated. And, to keep in mind, many times to be disruptive is precisely the ability to maintain a link with the purest meaning of beautiful and harmonious.
DIOR:
“To test reality we have to see it on the circus rope. When truths become acrobats, then we can judge them. “Oscar Wilde had not gone far when, in a vanguard link between reality and truth, he used the circus as the guiding image. Maria Grazia Chiuri in her latest couture presented an unusual truth for the Dior maison, announcing between clowns, trapeze artists and tamers a new direction, a new form of beauty that found, in clothes whose phantasmagoria fits perfectly with a design studied in minimal details, its favorite guises. Elegance and avant-garde come together in a balanced combination where the woman is not only the usual couture princess, but has a bold personality, a true soul and a style that is not afraid to dare. Among tulle, embroidery, silk and a make-up that reproduces the melancholy robes of circus clowns, Dior once again does not break ties but invents new and unexpected paths.
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VAUTHIER:
A question of charm and color codes, a balance between embroidered and not embroidered and a reference to the chic attitude par excellence, the one made in Paris. This is how Alexandre Vauthier opens his show in a glamorous atmosphere that finds in the couture the trampoline for a sophisticated yet absolutely contemporary style. The main study has been made on the silhouette at times very short at times taken directly from the sinuous shapes of the 60 ‘. Pristine garments are mixed with micro dresses embellished with silver and gold details that leave no way to the imagination, creating a unicum of masculine and feminine references that once united give life to perfect metropolitan princesses.
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VIKTOR & ROLF:
If before we spoke of disruption, after seeing the images of Viktor and Rolf‘s couture, we will have to review the etymology of this term. That the clothes speak and communicate a message is in fact a metaphor more than used in the jargon of high fashion, but this time there were no metaphors; this time a message has been really communicated and it could be seen impressed there on the clothes. Whether liked it or not, this year’s Viktor and Rolf collection can not but be appreciated and coveted. The decidedly overdressed style of pastel-colored dresses and meters and yards of tulle, mixes with impact phrases that link, for the first time, to haute couture the concept of personalized and customized. “Go to hell”, “Give a Damn” but also “I want a better world” are just some of the slogans that not only make the collection original and refined, but unequivocally unforgettable.
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VALENTINO:
We do not think to exaggerate by saying that Mr. Valentino Garavani would have been the first to give a standing ovation to the latest creation of the genius Pier Paolo Piccioli. With a moving beauty, dresses of a unique creative mastery of their kind have told the story not only of a maison, but of an historical journey of styles and references that has found in the meticulous care of details, impeccable workmanship and a triumph of rainbow tones its wonderful expression. Once again Piccioli did not disappoint, once again we had the confirmation that a baton, however cumbersome it was, has passed into the right hands. Not only starry nights’ atmosphere but design taken directly from the glamor of real life, have paraded in a series of dresses with new harmonies of colors such as pale mauve, chocolate, mandarin and mustard yellow. Volant, volumes and a pristine femininity were sublimated by a feathered frame on the models’ faces, which gave the final touch to something that does not find another binomial that the one with beauty in its purest meaning. To close the iconic shoe could only be Naomi Campbell, an icon herself not only for the whole fashion system but to the heart of Mr. Valentino himself who, moved, has paid homage to a dream come true.
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