The first fashion shows of this Milan Fashion Week kicked off yesterday. On the catwalk for next Fall / Winter 2021/22 are warm textures, enveloping shapes and organic palettes. The contrast between classic and glamor finds its perfect declination in dresses suited to the needs of contemporary life, sophisticated and wonderfully easy-to-wear.
ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 21/22
The dichotomies and contradictions of the present time are the needs from which the Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter collection takes shape. The response from the brand are reassuring gestures, decisive actions that translate into enveloping shapes and warm textures. The silhouettes are fluid and not very geometric, the curves immerse the figure and embrace it completely, as is done with the accessories, which are no longer on the shoulder but wrap in the hands. The entire FW 21/22 proposal is dominated by a new minimalism that rests simple and sophisticated dresses on hyper-glamorous wedges and heels. The outerwear, edged with blanket stitch, are wide, declined in ponchos, dressing gowns and trench coats with strong shoulders. The sweaters have high ribbed necks with ruffled collars, while the long pleated skirts open over soft trousers. The idea is to show a new sensuality that is not based on centimeters of uncovered skin but, on the contrary, has a voluptuousness in covering that makes everything even more feminine. The overalls and work trousers, now in suede or leather, now in denim, have a high waist and regular fit, combined with shearling coats and tuxedo suits. Lacquers, sequin embroidery, flocking and color baths complete the outfits giving them an extremely sophisticated touch in the widest simplicity. The color palette is iconic: deep black and smoky gray soften earth tones such as ocher, brown, beige and touches of teal and olive green. The synthesis comes at the end of the show, in the look with golden sequined trousers, shearling sweater and wide-brimmed hat.
FENDI FW 21/22
The first prêt-à-porter collection by Mr. Kim Jones for Fendi yesterday made its debut on the catwalk, in an ode to the classic stylistic codes of the house reinterpreted in a contemporary and multicultural key. The Savoir-faire and typically Italian elegance, of which the brand has always been a faithful ambassador, have met a new, fresh, at times British perspective, which combines the casual codes of today’s trends and the needs of contemporary women with a timeless style and a beautifully harmonious color palette. Comfort meets elegance in a riot of monochromatic looks that play on four main nuances: brown, black, white and khaki green. The key looks of the collection make the outerwear, in fur or wool and strictly oversized, the protagonists, combined with pencil skirts and Bermuda shorts to be worn with bra or cropped shirts. A twenties touch is given by the fringes and satin mini dresses that refine the collection by embracing a style as sophisticated as it is easy-to-wear at 360 degrees. The slip dress and pajama style explore new connotations of ready-to-wear, becoming the must-have item for next Autumn / Winter. The shapes play, in spite of what the trends command, on the high waist to compensate for the pullovers and super short tops. To complete the silhouettes, a reinterpretation of the most classic tuxedo, strictly black, de-structured made hyper-feminine on dresses with a plunging neckline and sinuous shapes. Accessories are oversized: as far as bags are concerned, in particular, extra-large tote bags with fur and sheepskin profiles steal the show; while the shoes are leather over-the-knee boots with a straight leg.