Fashion - June 15, 2022

Surrealism, strong contrasts and psychedelic romanticism, the best of Resort 2023

Fashion is finally shining again on the catwalk. One of the first brands to show the Resort 2023 collection was Chanel. Until a few years ago, the fashion system lived from two single moments dedicated to presentations, the Spring Summer and Autumn Winter collections. Today everything has changed, two collections per year for the fashion world – which is constantly and rapidly changing – are no longer enough. It is no coincidence that we hear more and more about Resort, Cruise, Pre-Spring, which are synonymous with each other, Pre-Fall, and various Couture collections. The Resort collections are considered among the most exclusive, and were once exclusively for those who travelled to warmer places during the colder months.


For the 2023 resort collection, Virginie Viard‘s vision of Chanel came to life in the iconic Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel. With many stars in attendance to admire the timeless glamour of the historic French maison, the entire show was inspired by one of the Principality’s biggest events, Formula 1. Chanel’s irreplaceable tweed is embellished with brilliant textures and applications, from sequins to silk to graphic patterns that made the show unique. How is possibile to survive without Chanel’s signature motorbike helmets?


The fil rouge of Louis Vuitton’s 2023 resort collection is the sun, the California sun. In San Diego, Nicolas Ghesquière presented a selection of daring looks. From boleros, a parachute seems to open in flight, metallic textures, unusual geometries and overlays, crystal fringes. This collection is a clear representation of oxymoron, even in the choice of location. Not surprisingly, Louis Khan’s architectural Brutalism is even more emphasised by the Pacific Ocean at sunset. In fact, even the clothes/clothing present strong contrasts, both in fabrics and colours.


Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, literally transported us into a magical surreal universe with his Cosmogenie show at Castel del Monte (in Apulia). From Elizabethan England to the French spirit, passing through Italian haute couture and Hollywood. A crazy show that ended with a dress that took us back to the constellations, embroidered with crystals on midnight blue velvet. His touch on the archive was also important, especially in the accessories, reinvented in a modern and up-to-date key. Between progress and tradition, once again Michele’s work never ceases to amaze us.


Veronica Etro‘s last word as creative director of Etro‘s womenswear division, a handover to the new creative director Marco De Vincenzo. The focus is on colour, paisleys have been enlarged and simplified. A playful bohemian atmosphere seems to tell of the warmer seasons of the year. Among the most used colours are pink, turquoise, fuchsia and orange. A rainbow universe with an unprecedented freshness.


Massimo Giorgetti‘s collection for MSGM, amid shirts, tops, ruffles and chiffon, is a tale of psychedelic romanticism. Strong graphic elements, tropical prints, black, and a fashion that aims to make us feel good and have fun. A message of positivity linked to the art world and the archive. Giorgetti’s influences for his 2023 resort include the work of Irish artist Yuri Pattinson.


Tod’s 2023 resort collection relies on the idea of craftsmanship combined with the concept of creativity. Walter Chiapponi for Tod’s has designed a collection of interesting textures and silhouettes. Knitwear plays a key role as always, and the role of denim is also significant. A monochrome experience made up of oversize garments and accessories perfectly in line with the story, able to meld perfectly with each look.


Demna Gvasalia chose to show Balenciaga in the setting of the New York Stock Exchange. While “New York, New York” played in the background, an alternation of blazers and oversized jeans, then the collaboration with Adidas and the latex masks. The choice to use masks, however, has a much broader meaning for Demna, a metaphor for capitalism. Faceless individuals and personalities that finally become an expression of equality by destroying social differences.



Stella McCartney‘s 2023 resort collection is the tale of a wild yet sensual woman. Animal prints, oversize blazers, colourful patterns and deeply connected to nature. Distinctive features include the softness of the clothes, the hems hand crocheted in Italy. The designer’s thoughts go to rewilding activities, to all efforts to preserve and protect natural processes and wilderness areas. One of the most interesting garments in the collection is undoubtedly the jumper with crocheted and assembled flowers.


Designer Jeremy Scott transports us on his journey through the 1960s and 1970s, in a unique imagery that reminds us of stars of the calibre of Cher and Diana Ross. The inspiration comes from that precise moment in history when celebrities with a mock casual air walked out of airports wearing brightly coloured suits, boots, mini and long dresses often embellished with the famous collars that were symbols of that era.

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