Chanel’s Haute Couture show A/W 2020 is further confirmation of the talent of Virginie Viard, and all those who trembled for the future of the maison after the death of Lagerfeld breath a sigh of relief.
The will of Viard, in this collection, is to make it clear that the heritage of Chanel will be 100% preserved, and that it is why she choose to recreate, as a setting for the show, the aisles of an archive.
Let’s start with fabrics: tweed is a must, on pied-de-poule patterned dresses with a white belt at the waist, suits in neon pink with a sculpture collar, and on classic little black jackets.
The feathers of Lemarié give lightness to the skirt of a wonderful Sixties-inspired one-shoulder dress, peeking out from a fold of the white skirt in their lively shade of pink, or flutter from black taffeta sleeves.
Finally, the sequin makes its appearance on a purple and gold suit, or on details and embroideries scattered over meters of fabric.
The chromatic palette is once again the classic one of the maison: very neutral colors, like black and white, beige, silver and gold, with lively hints of deep pink and neon orange.
There is no denying that Virginie Viard has honoured the legacy that was given to her also in the silhouettes: broad shoulders, tight skirts, games of volumes and transparencies with rigid jackets paired with long and fluttering skirts.
The hymn to modernity is enclosed in the wedding dress worn by Vittoria Ceretti: powdery pearl colour for trousers and blouse, on which triumphs a dressing gown with edges in silk satin completely covered with feathers, arranged neatly in horizontal rows.
A bride in the era of secret marriages in Las Vegas, where the princely dream is replaced by the originality of a gown unique of its kind.
For Chanel the dream goes on, and Madame Viard excellently carries on the teachings of her master, the great Karl Lagerfeld, and makes more than ever a tribute to Coco Chanel‘s mantra according to which “fashion goes, style remains”.
