Fashion - January 26, 2024

John Galliano’s new Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela


The ritual of clothing has been transformed into a revolutionary form of art through Maison Margiela’s new Artisanal collection for Spring/Summer 2024, a truly extraordinary representation of John Galliano‘s creative genius. In this journey through fashion, the body becomes a canvas for expressing the deepest emotions, shaped by the visionary inspiration of the creative director.

The runway, set under the evocative Pont Alexandre III and illuminated by the light of the first full moon of the year, transported us to a world beyond the conventional. Fascinated by Brassaï’s photography, John Galliano led us into an unprecedented experience. A multisensory event that engaged everyone in a journey through awareness, enriched by a black-and-white cinematic prelude told through the suggestive and rainy nighttime atmosphere of Paris.


The collection told the beauty and fragility of decay through tailoring masterpieces. Silhouettes, sculpted primarily by corsets, created a unique form of expression, with jackets and pants as light as feathers constructed through the fascinating technique of milletrage – an illusory vision of organza and felt under the wool crêpe, with trompe l’oeil prints recreating the texture of a classic fabric typical of the male wardrobe.

A central role was played by shoes signed by Christian Louboutin in collaboration with Maison Margiela. Thus, John Galliano once again demonstrated his role in the fashion system, his ability to merge art with fashion, explore new tailoring techniques, and transform a runway into a unique and revolutionary adventure.


“This collection appears as an ode to individuality, art, and the beauty of imperfection.”


Furthermore, the creations are a blend of various extraordinarily selected materials. Milletrage coats, jackets, and pants made of silk organza, horsehair, and felt underlayers of wool crêpe. Watercoloring in tulle (inspired by the works of the Franco-Dutch painter Kees Van Dongen), present throughout the collection, gives an ethereal and surreal touch. And yet, muslin, georgette, chiffon, Chantilly lace, velvet, and satin, create an effect of artistic degradation. Finally, to conclude the show, a selection of looks inspired by iconic porcelain dolls – culminating in the final exit of actress Gwendoline Christie.


Images courtesy of Maison Margiela

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