Fashion - July 17, 2020

L’amour: A Poem By Simon Porte Jacquemus

“What’s so beautiful about L’Amour is how it can endure—sometimes even grow stronger—in the absence of people being together” few poetic verses introduce Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2021 collection, in an unedited ode to the genuineness of feelings and realism in its purest sense. Simon Porte Jacquemus has once again left his spectators speechless: an enormous expanse of wheat and an S-shaped catwalk, green hills in the background and a sky covered by a light and unequivocally romantic haze, this is the exceptional location chosen to celebrate L’Amour, Jacquemus’ latest artistic creation. A human chain immersed in the boundless evocative power of nature has represented a new creative process, created with a more sustainable rhythm which, as is now the trend, has combined men‘s and women‘s clothing. Among the audience, the family and friends of the brand, which entranced, admired a surprisingly humble and beautiful show, in the same way, it would be done within the walls of one’s own home.

A reduced collection, made of simple materials and few colours, which have been able to give a whole new light to garments that have never lost their identity. In just one year, and what a year, we went from the intoxicating scent of lavender, violet and an extremely pop-soul, to the ears of wheat and their soft and bright colours, which suggest an unprecedented return to origins. A boundless French countryside hosted a catwalk made of curves, the same shots from the details of the clothes in the collection such as the balloon sleeves, the sinuous long skirts and the crop tops. The colour palette recalls the palette of a naturalist painter: white, beige and yellow and a few hints of light blue, salmon pink and black. Simon Porte’s style once again emphasizes simple but incredibly sophisticated shapes: spaghetti strap maxi dress that takes the style of lingerie dresses to take on an incredibly chic allure, square crop top shirts that slightly uncover breast lines without ever being vulgar, masculine suits with deep necklines made of oversized blazers and ton sur ton Bermudas but still, masculine suits with soft shapes and small tassels or cuts of fabric to embellish them, madras paintings on a white background and pastel colours, and abstract patterns just mentioned but impactful. The cuts, masterfully created by Simon, are made to amaze: belts knotted where the waist is lower, scalene figures to compose the tops, cushions instead of the cups for the bra.

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"As an idea for this collection, L’Amour began as something different. I imagined people gathered together celebrating love. Alexander Ekman’s choreography of wheat tossed passionately through the air. Emir Kursturica’s film, Time of the Gypsies with its enchanting realism. These scenes of ceremony large and small. But what’s so beautiful about L’Amour is how it can endure—sometimes even grow stronger—in the absence of people being together. Not long after my team was separated from each other, we were all in our homes feeling the desire to work, and a new vision of the collection emerged. We became a human chain, every step of the creative process executed with love. In fact, every decision I make concerning JACQUEMUS is motivated first by love and common sense. It’s why we shifted to a more sustainable rhythm last year, with two shows combining menswear and womenswear, held in January and June. This decision ended up saving us this season, since we had received all our fabric orders ahead of the confinement. Deciding to go ahead with our usual collection schedule and with a show is at the heart of our visual identity, our commercial strategy. With this smaller collection, presented mainly to our family and friends, we bring our interior worlds out into the open, interpreting the humble fabrics and objects we live with that have their own poems to tell. Within the home, L’Amour reveals itself in small wonders. Separate but collectively, we realized that the home is a place of endless inspiration. These impressions are what I wanted to recreate in this setting today, where we have been fully sensitive to the circumstances. My team has put in an enormous effort these last few months, and I am so grateful that we arrived here, that we are gathered together in the end. For me, it is important for people to see that a true celebration of L’Amour is universal." Simon

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The accessories are as simple as oversized: to adorn the face and décolleté of the women’s collection, earrings andnecklaces in the shape of a leaf or ear and hair gathered in large vintage pins, always gold like wheat. La Chiquito is still the protagonist in its mini version, accompanied by new bucket bags used for both the women’s and men’s lines, inside? Freshly picked strawberries and as much Amour, as Jacquemus decided.

Don’t miss this romantic fashion poem on the Jacquemus website

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